Prehistoric and Roman periods (to AD 410)
The earliest finds in the area are Lower to Middle Palaeolithic handaxes, (500,000 to 40,000 BC) which have been discovered during the digging of gravel pits and as a surface find on the common. Two occupation sites dating to the Mesolithic (10,000 – 4,000 BC) have been found in the Misbourne Valley to the east of the town: one at Misbourne viaduct where animal remains and flint tools were found and a second site excavated at Oakend in advance of the Chalfont St Peter bypass, which revealed a flint working site. There has only been one chance find of Mesolithic flint flake, which was discovered on the Common. Neolithic to Bronze Age flint artefacts have been found around the town including Oakend Cottage, in Chalfont Park, at Isle-of-Wight Farm and various other places. Some flint artefacts have been found in gardens in Camp Road, such as a Neolithic to Bronze Age hammerstone, and a side scraper and borer at Long Patch. A possible Neolithic long barrow has been claimed as identified in geophysical survey at Bulstrode Camp, but remains unverified (GX9).
The most notable archaeological monument is the Iron Age hillfort of Bulstrode Camp, a scheduled monument located 400 metres west of Gerrards Cross Common. The hillfort is the largest of its type in Buckinghamshire. It was formerly situated in the Bulstrode estate, however in the twentieth century its ramparts were surrounded by the building of Camp Road. The hillfort interior was acquired by the parish council in 1932 who now manage it as public open space. A geophysical survey of the hillfort revealed a possible D-shaped enclosure and hut circles (GX9) although limited excavations in 1924 suggested that it may not have seen intensive occupation (GX1).
The Gerrards Cross area seems to have been important for Roman pottery making. Early Roman pottery kilns have been excavated at Hedgerley in advance of gravel extraction. They are dated to the second century AD and not only the remains of kilns but kiln furniture and pottery were also found. Kilns were also found to the south of Gerrards Cross in advance of the construction of the M40 motorway, for instance at Moat Farm. Pottery sherds discovered at Camp Road suggest that a pottery kiln might be present here too. Two pottery kilns of a similar date were also excavated at Springwood on Hedgerley Lane (GX2). It has been conjectured that two Roman roads passed through Gerrards Cross although there has been no archaeological evidence to substantiate these theories.
Saxon and Medieval Gerrards Cross (AD 410 – 1536)
There is no mention of Gerrards Cross in the Domesday Book and its origins are unclear. Administratively the Gerrards Cross area was divided between the parishes of Chalfont St Peter, Fulmer, Iver, Langley Marish and Upton Cum Chalvey until the creation of Gerrards Cross parish in 1861. There have been no significant finds relating to the Anglo Saxon period in the area, it was most likely an extensively grazed open or wooded common at that time.
The first detailed map reference to Gerrards Cross comes from Rocque’s map of 1761 where it is referred to as Jarret’s Cross and is little more than a crossroads. The name is thought to derive from a personal name (Mawer & Stenton, 1925), however there has been some debate about its exact origins. The earliest mention of the name is found in a 15th century rental document of Missenden Abbey that refers to Geraddes Crosse (Edmonds & Baker 2003). Another suggestion is that the name may relate to a ‘Robert Gerrard of Chalfont’ who was recorded as a tenant in a property survey of Missenden Abbey 1333; although there is no mention of the location of the land (Baker 2006). The cross element is thought to be derived from the original intersection of the Oxford Road depicted on the Bulstrode Estate map of 1686. The estate map illustrates Hedgerley Lane crossing the Oxford Road, running south to connect to Windsor Road (Figure 12). This route is thought to be the one stopped up in 1707 when the Earl of Portland gained the consent of neighbouring landowners. Another plausible suggestion is that the ‘cross’ may have referred to a boundary cross or the mark of an important meeting place (Hunt & Thorpe 2006).
There is scant information from which to reconstruct the medieval landscape of Gerrards Cross but it is thought that the would have been similar to the one depicted on the Ordnance Survey Surveyors’ map of the early 19th century: a well wooded landscape with dispersed settlement of farmsteads and larger manors focussed around the large expanse of Chalfont Heath. The settlements are typified by Deedsworth Farm, (later to become Orchehill House) which has its origins dating to the 14th century. Situated to the west of the common and south west of the Oxford Road, was Bulstrode manor; Bulstrode was an ancient estate that had been split in two in the medieval period. The western half was Temple Bulstrode manor, a Knights Templar’s Preceptory in the thirteenth and fourteenth century thought to be centred on Moat Farm (Hedgerley Lane). The site is a scheduled monument on account of the remains of an early 14th century building within the moat. The other manor was at Bulstrode itself and believed to be the site of a medieval deer park, (Cantor & Hatherley 1984).
Manors
The following summaries are taken primarily from the Victoria County History and are limited in the data they provide, the history of the manors around Gerrards Cross are complex and a more detailed study is required to fully understand them. A complete catalogue of the available documentary evidence relating to medieval manors is now available online via the National Archives Manorial Documents Registry produced in 2008 by the Centre for Buckinghamshire Studies and the National Archives.
Chalfont Manor
This manor was held by Bishop Odo of Bayeaux in 1086, subsequently passing to the counts of Meulan, Earls of Leicester who granted it to Missenden Abbey. After the Dissolution the manor was granted to Robert Drury, it remained with that family until 1650 when it was conveyed to Richard Whitchurch. It descended with the Whitchurch family until 1809 when it was sold to William Jones, who subsequently sold it to Reverend Moore in 1847.
Bulstrode Manor (Temple Bulstrode)
The history of Bulstrode manor is somewhat confusing. It was originally one manor until it was divided in the 12th century between Bulstrode and Temple Bulstrode. A small estate in Chalfont St Peter was held by the Templars, and later the Hospitallers, as part of their manor in Hedgerley from the early 13th century until the Dissolution when the land was conveyed to Robert Drury.
Brudenells Manor
This manor was created out of a further division of the Bulstrode manor in the 13th century. It was originally held by the Turville family as part of the honour of Leicester. The first tenant of the estate was Andrew Goys in the 13th century, passing to Geoffrey Bulstrode in 1320 and remaining with that family until the mid-17th century when it was sold to the Allen family (Page W, 1925). References to this manor are scarce until 1794 when the manor was sold to Thomas Hibbert. The estate was then sold by the Hibbert’s in 1899 to Mr John Akroyd.
Medieval Mills
A medieval watermill is known from historic records at Oakend, called Noke Mill.
Other Industries
Other medieval artefacts have been found in excavation, such as the fourteenth century tile works also at Oakend and the ditches, pits and pottery found at Moray House on Camp Road, (GX11).
Nunnery
The Bulstrode Estate map of 1686 mentions a nunnery field name which is located to the south of Gerrards Cross; although there is no known monastery or nunnery recorded in this part of Buckinghamshire. It is likely that this reference is merely a naming quirk by the owners of the land rather than a cartographic indicator for a religious house. Nonetheless further investigations could be made to determine whether there is any evidence for a nunnery.
Post Medieval Gerrards Cross (1536 – 1800)
As with the medieval period knowledge about post medieval Gerrards Cross is limited. Oxford Road was an important droving route in this period (and probably has much earlier origins). Livestock and goods were driven to markets in Uxbridge and London. The ponds on Chalfont Common would have been an important stopping point for watering cattle and draught animals. By 1751 the Oxford Road had become a part of the Beaconsfield to Uxbridge turnpike, providing a faster and smoother route to London. This change benefited the inns that supported the coaching trade, this included the Oxford Arms, (later known as the Bull Inn), which pre-dated the turnpike era as the inn is registered on the Bulstrode Estate map of 1686. In the 17th and 18th centuries, piecemeal settlement encroached upon what eventually becomes known as Gerrards Cross Common. The settlement pattern took the form of farms and cottages dotted around the common edge.
Manors
Bulstrode Manor
Bulstrode manor was purchased by the notorious Judge John Jeffreys. In 1686 a year after his elevation to Lord Chancellor following the ‘Bloody Assize,’ Jeffreys had a new mansion built at Bulstrode which is believed to be partly constructed from the materials of the old house (Sheahan 1861). It is also thought that Jeffreys commissioned the 1686 Estate map of Bulstrode as part of the map contains the plans for the new house and grounds. Jeffreys did not enjoy his new house for long, when James II was driven from the throne in 1688 to be replaced by the Protestant William of Orange and his wife Mary, Jeffreys decided to take refuge overseas. Unfortunately for Jeffreys he was captured before he could make good his escape and was taken to the Tower of London where he died (Baker 2003 pp 119-120). In 1706 Bulstrode was purchased by Hans William Bentinck (who was eventually given the title Earl of Portland). The Bulstrode house and estate remained in the possession of the Dukes of Portland for several generations. The second Earl of Portland is believed to be responsible for the stopping of a road running south in order to bring Camp into the bounds of the wider estate.
Bulstrode’s designed landscape developed in the beginning of the 18th century when Hans William Bentinck employed George London as his garden designer. London was famous for designing geometric, formal gardens in Dutch, French and Italianate styles, and the garden he created at Bulstrode was typical of his designs. The ground was laid out with an enclosed garden to the west, with a pavilion on the middle, and four rectangular beds laid out around it. Behind it there was a large area with a pond in the middle and tree lined paths radiating out like spokes of a wheel. To the north there was a straight canal of considerable length known as the Long Water. The 18th century garden is depicted in an engraving by Bowles, (Figure 14). Successive embellishments to the grounds were made by the Earl’s son Henry and grandson William (Baker 2003).
Chalfont Park
In 1760 General Charles Churchill, the owner, employed Capability Brown to create a formal park landscape. The house was brought by the Hibbert family in 1794. They employed Humphrey Repton to improve the 150 acres of enclosed land. The overall effect of the change was to widen the river Misbourne into a lake, introduce scenic planting, a boat house and an ice house. The house was further modified in 1836 by Anthony Salvin who laid out a cricket pitch. During the early 20th century, Gertrude Jekyll planned a garden alcove, a brick orangery and a wishing well (BCM 1998).
Inns and Taverns
Oxford Arms/Bull Inn
The Oxford Arms, (later to be called the Bull Inn) is featured on the Bulstrode Estate Map of 1686 and is believed to be the earliest recorded inn at Gerrards Cross. The crossroads of the Oxford Road/Bull Lane was an ideal position for an inn to capture trade of passing travellers. The turnpiking of the Oxford Road in 1719 increased the traffic and trade and this is reflected in the investment by the Duke of Portland to expand the inn in 1735. The Bull Inn never became a coaching inn as this trade was catered by Uxbridge and Beaconsfield (Hunt and Thorpe 2006).
French Horn and The Packhorse
Apart from The Bull Inn there were a couple of inns catering for travellers along the Oxford Road one of which was the French Horn (formerly called the White House), which is mentioned in a 1743 rental agreement from the Duke of Portland (Hunt and Thorpe 2006). The Packhorse Inn dates from 1707 when Thomas Pyner purchased land from the Orchehill Estate to set up a beer house. The Packhorse became very popular with the Old Berkeley Hunt in the late 18th century who based their headquarters and kennels at the back of the Inn.
Late 18th century to 1900
In the late 18th century Chalfont Heath (latterly Gerrards Cross Common) became very popular with the wealthy elite, in particular the Old Berkeley Hunt who chose Latchmoor Pond, as a scenic meetings point. In 1796 the Earl of Berkeley also established his kennels at the former Packhorse Inn where they remained until they were transferred to Rickmansworth in the 19th century (Hunt & Thorpe 2006). As Gerrards Cross became fashionable many of the cottages and farmhouses around the Common were converted into gentlemen’s residences. Further building of houses and hunt boxes was made easier when the parliamentary enclosure Act of 1815 enclosed parts of the parish of Langley Marish. Thomas Oldacre built a house known as Berkeley Cottage on the corner of Mill Lane and East Common. Other imposing houses such as Walters Croft House, (now the Memorial Centre), were adapted as hunt boxes with stabling. There were also purpose built houses including St Hubert’s House was a hunting lodge said to have been built as a hunting lodge for the William Le Poer Trench. A further Parliamentary Enclosure Act in 1865 enclosed Fulmer Heath making it possible for further development along the Oxford Road. By the 1860s, the mass influx of wealthy visitors to the area earned Gerrards Cross the sobriquet the “Brighton of Bucks.” Gerrards Cross was an important transit site with the Oxford Road, was the main hub for activity, bringing in visitors from all over the country.
Information courtesy of Buckinghamshire County Council’s “Gerrards Cross – Buckinghamshire Historic Towns Assessment Report”